Mt. Kurodake 黒岳 (Revisited)

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Misaka-toge 御坂峠 – Kurodake Tenbodai 黒岳展望台 – FUJIYAMA ツインテラス

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Hiking Mt. Kurodake near Lake Kawaguchi

Mt. Kurodake, situated on the north side of Lake Kawaguchi, is the highest peak in the Misaka Mountains that encircle the Fuji Five Lakes. It is recognised as one of Japan’s 300 Famous Mountains and one of the 100 Famous Yamanashi Mountains. To distinguish it from other nearby peaks named “Kurodake,” it is often referred to as Misaka Kurodake. On its eastern side, it faces Mt. Mitsutoge across Misaka Pass, a historic transportation route connecting the Kofu Basin to Lake Kawaguchi. This hike offers a streamlined version of an overnight trek I completed a few years ago.

From Kawaguchiko Station 河口湖駅, take a bus bound for Kofu Station 甲府駅 from bus stop 5 and get off at Mitsutoge-Iriguchi 三ツ峠入口. The ride takes approximately 24 minutes and costs 490 yen. Alternatively, you can take a bus bound for Tenkachaya 天下茶屋. However, this option has limited service with only one bus per day at 9:50 am, operating year-round on both weekdays and weekends. Starting from Tenkachaya reduces the elevation gain by approximately 300 metres, although the overall hiking time remains comparable.

From the bus stop, walk uphill and cross the busy main road before it enters the Shin-Misaka Tunnel. The signposted trailhead is located about 30 metres to your left on the road leading to Tenkachaya. Follow the trail marked Misaka-toge 御坂峠. A short distance in, you’ll find a map displaying Kawaguchi-no-mori 河口の森. Although the trail is a little faint at the beginning, it’s easy enough to follow. The path starts off somewhat steep but gradually eases as it approaches the ridgeline. From the trailhead, it should take around 90 minutes to reach an open area at Misaka-toge 御坂峠, where a shuttered tea house is located.

At Misaka-toge, veer left and follow the undulating, rocky ridgeline past some dilapidated toilets, which includes sections of minor rock scrambling. This part of the hike is quite exposed, so be prepared for strong, cold winds, especially in the winter months. The summit of Mt. Kurodake 黒岳 (1,793 m) is enclosed by vegetation, but a short walk beyond the summit leads to a fantastic lookout point marked Tenbodai 展望台 (Observatory). From the exposed rocks there, you can enjoy stunning views of Lake Kawaguchi, Mt. Fuji, and even the Southern Alps. This scenic spot is perfect for taking a break and enjoying lunch.

When you’re ready to continue, return to the summit and turn left in the direction of Shindo Pass 新道峠. After an initially steep descent to Suzuran-toge すずらん峠, the trail flattens out, with intermittent views of Mt. Fuji appearing through the trees. The next notable point along the ridgeline is the relatively indistinct summit of Mt. Hafu 破風山 (1,674 m). About 20 minutes beyond this, you’ll reach the FUJIYAMA ツインテラス (Twin Terrace) amphitheatres at Shindo Pass, which opened in 2021. Both terraces provide breathtaking views of Mt. Fuji, complemented by Lake Kawaguchiko below.

After enjoying a final view of Mt. Fuji, begin your descent to Lake Kawaguchiko by taking the trail immediately to the left of the Second Terrace. Look for a sign marked Kawaguchiko Natural Living Center 河口湖自然生活館. The narrow trail descends through Japanese larch trees and transitions into a cedar forest, with many twists and turns. Although less frequented, the trail is well-maintained, and the pristine forest makes it a pleasant hike down. About halfway to the Shindo Pass trailhead, you’ll encounter the first and only signpost.

Upon reaching a gravel forestry road, veer left, passing a stream, a massive concrete dam, and eventually a residential area as you near the township. Regular buses to Kawaguchiko Station (24 minutes, 490 yen) depart from a newly constructed bus stop on your right, just before the main road and directly across from the Kawaguchiko Natural Living Center. From the Twin Terrace, it takes approximately two hours to reach this point.
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