Why I Choose Trains Over Traffic: Rethinking Trailhead Access in Japan

Embracing Public Transport for Hiking in Japan

Following my recent reflections on the Hyakumeizan, crowds, hiking etiquette, and the transformative power of overnight hikes, another topic that deserves more attention is how we actually get to the mountains. While it might seem mundane compared to churning out miles over soaring alpine ridgelines or watching the sunrise from a tent, the way we approach the trailhead can say a lot about our hiking values—particularly when it comes to sustainability.

For various reasons, I’ve come to rely almost exclusively on public transportation to get to my hikes (our auto camping, however, is an entirely different thing!), even though I have a Japanese driver’s licence, we own an SUV, and generally enjoy driving. On paper, this might seem perplexing. Isn’t driving more convenient? Doesn’t it save time?

In my experience, not really. And more importantly, I’ve found that taking the train or bus doesn’t just get me to the trail—it makes the entire hiking journey a lot less hassle. Japan’s remarkably efficient and extensive public transportation network makes this reliance not just feasible but often surprisingly convenient. Many of Japan’s best-loved hiking destinations—such as Mt. Takao, Murodo, Hirogawara, Kamikochi, and even the Mt. Fuji 5th Stations—are specifically designed with public transit access in mind, with bus stops or train stations often within walking distance of the trailhead.

My first forays into long-distance public transport for hiking were Mt. Tanzawa and Mt. Kumotori. Both were thru-hikes with start and finish points far apart, and they wouldn’t have been logistically possible without the option of trains and buses at either end. I realised early on that public transportation isn’t just doable in Japan; it’s often the most logical choice—especially for linear routes that don’t loop back to a carpark.

Since then, it’s become my default. I’d estimate that over 95% of my hikes in Japan have begun and ended with a train or bus ride. And honestly, I wouldn’t have it any other way.

Why Public Transport Makes Sense for Hikers

There are plenty of reasons I prefer public transportation, and while only some are environmental, that’s still a big part of it. Here’s my take:

Environmental Impact
According to the Ministry of the Environment (source, PDF in Japanese), a private passenger car emits approximately 147 grams of carbon dioxide per kilometre per person, compared to approximately 19 grams by train and 51 grams by bus. Trains produce about 87% less CO₂ per passenger-kilometre compared to private cars. As hikers, we’re drawn to wild places and often speak of our love for them—so it only makes sense that we do our part to minimise our impact whenever we can. Taking public transport is one of the easiest, most tangible ways to do that.

Cost-Effective
Driving to trailheads isn’t cheap. When you factor in expressway tolls, fuel costs, parking fees, and possible car rental expenses (if you don’t own a car), public transportation often comes out ahead-especially for solo hikers like myself.

Convenience for Thru-Hikes
Linear or point-to-point hikes are far easier when you’re not tethered to where you parked your car. Starting at one trailhead and finishing at another feels far more natural—and lets you explore deeper into the mountains without worrying about returning to your vehicle. Many classic Japanese hikes, such as the Nakasendo Trail or the Kumano Kodo, are designed as thru-hikes and are well-served by public transport at both ends.

Comfort and Rest
I usually set out early and can often snag a seat for the entire ride. There’s something incredibly restful about dozing off on a train or sipping coffee while munching on a morning snack (once outside the city limits) as you glide toward the foothills—especially if you’re gearing up for a tough day ahead. And on the return journey, being able to rest your legs, crack a beer, or even nod off again rather than fight traffic is a real luxury.

Unexpected Encounters
There’s a quiet camaraderie among those easily recognisable as hikers at bus stops and rural train platforms—where you might share route plans with fellow hikers or get useful trail intel you’d otherwise miss. These fleeting moments of trailhead community are a small but memorable part of Japan’s hiking culture.

The Added Journey
There’s something satisfying about walking from a remote train station, winding through a sleepy mountain village, or following a picturesque forestry road after hopping off public transport. It makes the hike feel like it starts earlier and ends later—a richer, more layered experience than simply stepping out of a parked car.

Public Transport Is Sometimes the Only Option
In fact, in the case of Murodo (the gateway to the Northern Alps) and Hirogawara (the main trailhead for Mt. Kita and the Southern Alps), private vehicles are not allowed at all. Similarly, during the official climbing season (typically July to early September), private cars are usually restricted on the roads leading to the popular Mt. Fuji 5th Stations. During this period, visitors must use shuttle buses from designated parking areas at the base.

These restrictions are in place to reduce congestion and protect the mountain environment, making public transportation not just a sustainable choice but sometimes the only practical one.

But It’s Not Without Its Challenges

Of course, using public transport isn’t always seamless:

• Limited Schedules: Rural bus services can be infrequent, with just a handful of departures—or even just one per day. It can also take time digging into timetables to make sure you’ve read them correctly.

• Seasonal Access: Some bus services only operate during the hiking season, making it difficult to access certain areas year-round.

• Time Pressure: Missing the last bus home—or the first one—can be stressful. Keeping an eye on the clock while descending adds some pressure.

• Extra Walking: Trailheads might be several kilometres from the nearest station or bus stop, which adds to your day—though for me, this is more of a bonus than a drawback. That said, occasional busy roads or uninspiring stretches can make these approaches feel like slogs at times.

Still, these limitations are usually manageable with some careful planning. Tools like Navitime, Ekispert, and Yamareco make coordinating connections straightforward in many cases. With a bit of flexibility—and occasionally throwing in a taxi or hitching a ride—you can reach a surprising number of trailheads in Japan without needing a car, even in areas that feel way off the grid.

Rethinking the Journey

In the end, I believe hikers are among those best positioned to think deeply about how our actions affect the natural environment. Choosing public transport may not be possible or practical for everyone—but it’s more viable than many assume. And for those who give it a try, it may just change the way you see the journey to the trailhead—as something to savour rather than simply get over with.

So next time you lace up your boots, consider letting the journey to the mountains be part of the adventure—not just a means to an end, but a meaningful step towards experiencing hiking in its fullest sense.