Camping at the Foot of a Giant
When it comes to “galactic scale” campgrounds in Japan, Fumotoppara ふもとっぱら in the Asagiri Kogen highlands of Shizuoka Prefecture reigns supreme. Spreading out at the foot of majestic Mount Fuji, the site is a behemoth; for starters, it covers an area roughly equivalent to five Tokyo Domes and can accommodate up to 1,500 tents.
Unlike many Japanese campsites that confine you to small, marked-out plots, Fumotoppara allows you to set up essentially anywhere you like within the vast, open grassland. It positively dwarfs every other site in the area. For the uninitiated, the atmosphere resembles something between a massive music festival and a spectacular open-air film event.
Despite its fame, the pricing remains very reasonable at 1,000 yen per person and 2,000 yen per car per night. Mercifully, unlike many other campgrounds in Japan, they haven’t hiked their prices since the post-COVID-era camping boom.
This past week, I returned for a second visit – not to hike, but to relax and take in the spectacular view of Fujisan. The mountain sits as the main attraction and the primary draw, ensuring this campsite remains open for business 365 days a year (barring the occasional typhoon). Since my wife, Akiko, and I got into “auto camping” (or “car camping” in the English vernacular), I’ve been eager to bring her here to experience it. Even during our three-day stay during the week, there was a healthy number of fellow campers. Weekdays are by far the easiest time to secure a booking; weekends – especially Saturdays – are often reserved months in advance.
The amenities have improved a lot since my last visit. There is now a well-stocked shop carrying everything from aluminium foil and gas canisters to miscellaneous items you might need in a pinch. The free bathhouse is also surprisingly good, meaning there’s very little need to leave the grounds once you’ve settled in.
The nights, however, were biting – something to prepare for if camping here in mid-winter. On our first night, temperatures dropped to –6°C, and it felt only marginally warmer inside the tent. Once the morning sun hit the silnylon, though, the temperature rose rapidly. Conversely, I suspect mid-summer would be uncomfortably hot, as the site’s 830 metres of elevation is unlikely to offer much relief once the sun is fully out.
This trip allowed us to properly unwind. We fired up the BBQ more than once; enjoyed some wine, cracked a couple of tinnies, and marvelled at the starlit sky, warmed by the fire. Fumotoppara has atmosphere in spades – helped, of course, by the mountain graciously staying on display for most of our stay.
Fumotoppara campground, Asagiri Kogen highlands, Shizuoka Prefecture.
Akiko celebrating our arrival.
.
Signpost, Fumotoppara campground.
Nice reflection from the pond.
.
All set-up and ready to relax.
Plenty of pyramid-style tents.
.
Shooting Fujisan at its finest.
Last light of the day.
Chuck another burger on the BBQ.
.
