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Mt. Myojingatake 明神ヶ岳 – Yagurasawa-toge 矢倉沢峠
Distance: 15.7 km
Elevation change: 1144 metres
Highest point: 1169 metres
Start: Tsukahara Station (Daiyuzan Line)
Finish: Sengoku Bus Stop
Difficulty: ▅▅▅▅▅▅▅▅▅▅ ❸
Map: Yama to Kogen Chizu 山と高原地図 [No.32 箱根 HAKONE]
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Mt. Myojingatake via Ninomiya Kinjiro Shibakari Path
Myojingatake, part of the outer caldera of Mt. Hakone, lies within the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park and boasts commanding views of Mt. Fuji. As Hakone’s second most popular peak after Kintokiyama, it attracts hikers with its expansive summit area and stunning scenery. Several routes lead to the peak, most commonly tackled from Gora Station 強羅駅 looping around to Mt. Kintoki. This hike climbs via the lesser-known Ninomiya Kinjiro Shibakari Path 二宮金次郎柴刈り路.
Getting to Tsukahara Station 塚原駅 on the Izu Hakone Railway Daiyuzan Line, where the hike begins, requires taking local trains or the plush Odakyu Railway Limited Express Romancecar and transferring at Odawara Station to the Izu Hakone Railway Daiyuzan Line (15 minutes, 240 yen). Due to the length of the hike, it’s recommended to make an early start. I arrived at Tsukahara Station a little before 7:30 am. From Tsukahara Station, cross the tracks and follow the paved road towards Yasashiba 矢佐芝. Mt. Myojingatake will be visible ahead. At the top of the first hill, turn right at the T-junction. You’ll find a guidepost marking the way to Myojingatake.
Continue along the road, passing a small park with a nearby waterwheel. At the entrance to Yasashiba, there is a statue of Ninomiya Sontoku, a renowned agriculturalist and philosopher known for his hard work and diligence during the late Edo period. This village holds historical significance as the place where Ninomiya Kinjiro came to cut firewood, and a small settlement still remains today. Statues typically depict him in his youth, reading a book while walking and carrying firewood on his back.
The road gradually narrows and becomes gravel near a gate and small parking area. At a steady pace, it should take about an hour to reach this point from the station. There is a water source next to the trailhead. After a lengthy climb through a cedar forest, you’ll reach a road that offers a view towards the Tanzawa Mountains, making it a good spot to take a rest. From here, briefly walk along a paved forest road, where the trail resumes with a set of steps leading up the right side.
The path continues to climb for another hour through a mix of cedar trees and tall bamboo bushes, eventually reaching the Hakone outer rim ridge. Up until this point, I had encountered only one other hiker. Once you pass the fork in the trail leading to Daiyuzan Saijoji Temple 大雄山最乗寺, the view opens up near Mt. Myojingatake 明神ヶ岳 (1169 m), with Fujisan and pointy-tipped Kintokiyama making a standout appearance, together with Owakudani, which emits steam vigorously from its fumaroles. You can even make out the Southern Alps in the distance. Along the way, note the large stone monument commemorating when Emperor Showa, then Crown Prince, climbed the mountain.
One downside of this hike is the muddy ground, particularly on the outer caldera, including the summit, which can be quite slippery. It should take just under four hours to reach the summit from the station. After you’ve rested up, continue walking along Mt. Myojingatake’s flat, elongated summit ridge before you finally start to descend.
After reentering the forest, there are several steep parts where the trail is washed out. There is a peak called Mt. Hiuchiishi 火打石岳, but the hiking trail goes around the side of it instead of passing over the summit. Soon, the scenery changes, with both sides of the trail surrounded by soaring bamboo. This section is surprisingly tiring, with many ups and downs. If you still have fuel in the tank, you can continue to Mt. Kintoki; otherwise, descend towards Yagurasawa-toge 矢倉沢峠 and veer left down to the Sengoku bus stop 仙石.
Note that buses going to Hakone-Yumoto Station 箱根湯本駅 do not stop at the Kintokiyama trailhead bus stop, so walk along the road for another 5 minutes and instead take a bus from the Sengoku (33 minutes, 980 yen).