Are They a Force for Good – Or a Blight on the Landscape?
In Japan’s high mountain ranges, you’re never far from a hot meal, a warm place to rest—and sometimes even a vending machine. Contrast that with Victoria, Australia, where I cut my teeth as a hiker: rustic cattlemen’s huts, unlocked and unstaffed, built more for refuge than comfort. Even then, they were few and far between—certainly not the norm. You carried everything on your back—food, fuel, shelter—which made the experience quieter, more immersive, and more deeply connected to the landscape. It was a stark contrast to the structured comfort I would later encounter in the Japanese Alps.
Mountain huts in Japan verge on hotel-like convenience: set mealtimes, futons, drying rooms, advance bookings, and, of course, cold beer and soft drinks for thirsty climbers. For many, they are a treasured part of hiking culture—a way to experience the grandeur of the high peaks without the burden of heavy packs or the stress of self-sufficiency. These huts play a key role in making the mountains accessible to a wide range of people, from families to retirees, first-time trekkers to seasoned climbers. But for all their benefits, they also raise a difficult question: are mountain huts ultimately a force for good—or a slow-moving environmental blight?
This density becomes especially apparent in certain areas. Take Yatsugatake, for example—a mountain range I know well and have visited many times. This volcanic chain stretches for 30 km and includes no fewer than 33 mountain huts. It’s sometimes jokingly referred to as Goya-ga-take (小屋ヶ岳), a play on words blending goya (小屋, hut) with Yatsugatake, turning it into “Hut Mountain”. The nickname isn’t far off. A web of trails criss-crosses the massif, with huts at nearly every major junction. For those seeking solitude or a sense of true wildness, the sheer density can feel less like support and more like saturation.
Beyond the aesthetic impact of this density, there are deeper environmental concerns. The environmental cost of maintaining and supplying these huts is considerable. Helicopters fly in fuel, food, and supplies regularly, especially during the peak summer season. Large volumes of waste—both human and otherwise—must be treated or flown back out. Generators and kerosene heaters keep guests comfortable, but at the cost of emissions in fragile alpine zones where even minor damage—especially at high elevations—can take decades to heal.
This kind of infrastructure also changes the relationship between hikers and landscape. When meals, shelter, and even drinks are readily provided, the need for self-reliance fades. There’s less reason to learn core backcountry skills—like setting up a tent, cooking your own food, or reading the weather. The experience risks becoming one of passive consumption rather than active engagement.
That said, for many people—especially beginners—hut stays offer an important gateway into the outdoors. Not everyone starts out with the skills, confidence, or gear to launch into a self-supported multi-day hike, and huts provide a crucial stepping stone. The issue arises when this model becomes the default rather than just one option among many.
By contrast, the Australian Alps represent a radically different approach. Huts do exist, but they’re sparse, primitive, and often more than a century old. Their role is not to pamper but to protect. There’s no reserved bed or hot meal waiting. Instead, you plan your route, carry your supplies, and take full responsibility for your presence. This encourages deeper awareness—a greater sense of responsibility.
Japan’s mountain hut culture has deep roots. The country’s mountainous terrain, unpredictable weather, and cultural emphasis on group safety have long favoured the development of robust infrastructure. These huts also help sustain local economies, offering seasonal income and supporting rural mountain villages. For many, they’re more than just shelter—they’re a symbol of tradition and hospitality.
Having experienced both systems, I’ve come to see just how much infrastructure shapes our relationship with wild places. Japan’s huts are undeniably convenient—sometimes even irresistible—but that ease can also shift hiking from an act of participation to one of consumption.
But what if Japan embraced a hybrid model? Instead of full-service lodges at every major saddle and peak, imagine a network of simple refuge huts—unmanned, unlocked, and intended for emergencies or light use. What if we expanded opportunities and legal frameworks for low-impact wild camping in designated areas? Many hikers already do this quietly, sometimes bending rules, driven by a desire for a more immersive experience.
Mountain huts aren’t inherently bad. They provide safety, contribute to trail maintenance, support local economies, and can help manage human impact by concentrating it. But the scale and style of Japan’s hut culture have arguably gone too far, shifting the balance away from wilderness and towards comfort tourism. It’s worth asking whether this convenience-driven model is truly sustainable—for the mountains, for future hikers, and for the culture of hiking itself.
As Japan looks ahead, perhaps we should focus less on what makes hiking easy and more on what makes it meaningful. Mountain huts reflect the values and needs of their society. With new pressures from tourism, climate change, and shifting demographics, Japan has a chance to rethink what mountain access should be.
The question isn’t whether to eliminate huts entirely but how to create a system that preserves both accessibility and wilderness character. This might mean fewer, simpler huts in some places, expanded camping options in others, and above all, promoting a hiking culture that values connection and engagement over convenience.
The mountains we leave to the next generation will reflect the choices we make today. So, what kind of mountain experience do we truly want to preserve?
Another great, thought-provoking article. I agree with your points David, and perhaps the balance of providing convenience in certain areas seems to have fallen towards over-development with the negative results you describe. Fortunately Japan’s trail network is large enough to easily get away from these areas however.
I often hike in Western Australia where you are required to walk for days needing to be self-sufficient in food, water and shelter. After a hike under those conditions you become far more sensitive to the environment and the need to be able to manage your own safety.
On balance though, surely it is better to see more people outside walking on trails than in shopping centres. If a futon and beer vending machine are needed to achieve that, then may be that is the trade-off required!
Thanks for reading, Phil. You make a good point–while it’s not always possible to avoid the hut infrastructure, especially in the Japanese Alps, there are still plenty of places where you can really immerse yourself. And if the lack of huts is the only thing keeping someone from hitting the trail, then yes, in that context, huts are probably a good thing.
Hi David, Thanks for your insights as usual. I am actually hoping to do some overnight hikes this year and thinking of using huts to get back into it. I did hikes in the US and appreciated the feeling of satisfaction of knowing you were totally self-sufficent.
On the environment front, that’s a tough call. I think being out in nature in any way, will help you appreciate it more. It’s also linked to your last post – with more people using public transport to get to hikes, the overall impact might be equal.
Thanks for your comment, Mike. Great to hear you’re planning to get back into doing multi-day hikes–you’ll no doubt really enjoy them. The environmental impact is a bit of a complicated issue, but yes, taking public transport to the trailhead is definitely a good way to help reduce your carbon footprint.
Thanks for another thought-provoking piece, David. I’m particularly intrigued by your vision of “a network of simple refuge huts—unmanned, unlocked, and intended for emergencies or light use”, along the lines of the Australian ones you mentioned, or Scotland’s bothies, or the minimalist but very comfortable shelters in Switzerland’s Italian-speaking region. What strikes me is that such huts already exist on quite a few Japanese mountains (often in parallel with manned huts). But, all too often, they are in a dire state of disrepair and hygiene – OK, they would work in an emergency, but nobody would want to routinely overnight there. What’s needed, I would suggest, is some kind of fee system (as in the Swiss model) that pays for regular cleaning and maintenance. Then those shelters might indeed represent a viable “third way” between camping and the regular huts.
Thanks a lot for reading, PH. You’re spot-on – Japan already has a fair number of unmanned refuge huts, and a few of them actually rival the paid lodges in comfort. As you rightly point out, some are so rundown that you’d need to be in pretty dire straits even to stop for a few hours, let alone overnight. In places like Yatsugatake, there are virtually none – probably because of the density of staffed huts already there – whereas even some Tokyo-area mountains still have a handful of decent, popular refuges I’ve used a few times.
Yet the number of hikers who choose these shelters is tiny compared with those staying in paid huts. I agree that a modest fee system – similar to the Swiss model you mention – could be a fair compromise. Regular cleaning and maintenance would raise the standard of these huts and give hikers another option besides a full-service lodge or a no-meals sudomari stay.
Hi David, first, thanks for you series of thought provoking articles including this one. Regarding the mountain huts, I think you outline the issues very well and I agree with you that a hybrid hut model would be worth pursuing although I can see that the issue is going to be who is going to pay for it and where will the workers come from to do the maintenance. For instance, in Yatsugatake where I live, all the manned and full service huts are private businesses that are struggling to stay afloat ( even after raising their prices ) and struggle to get sufficient workers – 4 have permanently closed since Covid – although as you say, there seems to be too many to start with. However, in all my travels I cant recall seeing any ‘new’ huts, as opposed to refurbished or expanded ones, anywhere in Japan. I suspect the reason is that there are limited new locations in terms of the suitable terrain ( flat stable ground of sufficient area) located near a trail and close to water and the right distance between them. But as you say, there are many more sites suitable for camping that arent being used. I would say that the opportunity for your hybrid set up could be in places with less established routes or new routes. Another hybrid model that I think could be used more in Japan is the ‘newish’ Shinetsu Trail in northern Nagano/Niigata where there are no huts, campsites or carparks on or near the trail, but local service providers, including some accommodation owners, will pick up and drop off hikers where back roads intersect the trail, so that a 4-5 day through hike is possible without retracing your footsteps and minimal affect on the environment. Another model they could try in Japan, is the one that World Expeditions pioneered on the Larapinta Trail in Central Australia and now also in Nepal, is to have semi-permanent campsites ( removed over winter) for groups which are set off the main trails and cheaper to run and more environmentally friendly. These might be easier to establish in Hokkaido or Tohoku perhaps.
Thanks for the comment, Phil–and for reading these musings. No question the biggest roadblocks to any kind of hybrid hut model are funding and finding people willing to maintain them. My initial thought was that they could operate similarly to the unmanned emergency mountain shelters commonly built and maintained by the prefectural government, with some support shared by the Ministry of the Environment–like those in Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park. These huts are generally quite basic, but they’re well maintained, and if more were built, they’d likely do even better if permitted to accept paying overnight guests. As it stands, these hinan-goya are technically only intended for emergency use.
It doesn’t surprise me about Yatsugatake that four have shut up shop since COVID–with so many huts in a relatively compact area, no doubt all competing for the same small pool of workers. And yes, now that you mention it, I can’t think of any brand-new huts either–just rebuilds or expansions of older ones. Aside from cost and access to water, I imagine that obtaining permits and licenses must also be a major factor.
I like the idea of semi-supported routes like the Shinetsu Trail too–quiet trails, minimal infrastructure, and community-based support. It feels like a model that could work well in underused regions, especially if it’s tied into local economies.
The time for new mountain huts is over, I think. Everywhere in the world. I’m not aware of any new huts being built in the European Alps. Preserving, rebuilding with the latest environmentally friendly technologies, yes. But nothing more. Even demolition must be considered in areas where the mountain no longer allows a hut to be situated there.
Certainly no conversion to “simpler” standards.
Another point is the removal of huts and the rehabilitation of the site once a hut ceases to operate. As it stands, a good number of older huts, despite having closed, remain as is–resulting in an eyesore as the structures slowly deteriorate.