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Futamata 二俣 – Nabewari Sanso 鍋割山荘 – Kinhiyashi 金冷シ
Distance: 17.1 km
Elevation change: 1096 metres
Highest point: 1386 metres
Start: Okura Bus Stop
Finish: Okura Bus Stop
Difficulty: ▅▅▅▅▅▅▅▅▅▅ ❸
Map: Yama to Kogen Chizu 山と高原地図 ［No.31 丹沢 TANZAWA］
GPX TrackKML TrackGSI mapPDF Topo Map
Water Carting, Nabeyaki udon, and Fuji-san
Along with Mt. Oyama and Tounodake, Mt. Nabewari is a popular hiking destination in the Tanzawa Mountains. It is approachable from the east, west and three trails heading up from the south though best tackled via the Nishiyama Forestry Road. The mountain is famed for its Nabeyaki udon served from donabe “earthenware pots”. Rather than a out and back piston this hike loops around finishing its descent via the Okura Ridge.
From Shinjuku Station, take an express train bound for Odawara on the Odakyu Odawara Line, and get off at Shibusawa Station 渋沢駅 (75 mins, 690 yen). From the ticket gate turn right out the north exit and head to Bus Stand 2 bound for Okura 大倉 (15 mins, 210 yen). At Okura mosey across the road looking for a sign for Nabewariyama 鍋割山 and Futamata 二俣, the road to the right leads to Mt. Tounodake. The route winds around some local roads before passing through a deer gate. From here on you will be following the Nishiyama Forestry Road 西山林道 shadowing the Shijuhasse River. Along the way look out for the bronze bust of Hiroshi Ozeki a local mountaineering identity and was involved with various national mountaineering associations.
It’s worth mentioning the area is a haven for land leeches yama-hiru so pack some salt from May to October. Around 5 km hiking from Okura and several short river crossings you’ll arrive at Futamata. All-out climbing begins here at the trailhead proper. If you’re up to the task, feel free to pack and carry a 2 litre PET bottle for a little over an hour it takes to reach Nabewari Sansou 鍋割山荘 (1,272 m). It’s a massive help to Kusano san the mountain hut owner who has been running the place for an astounding 45 years. According to his blog he triumphantly states that he has carried loads exceeding 100 kg to the hut on more than a few occasions. Unfortunately doing so doesn’t discount the 1,500-yen Nabeyaki udon. Speaking of which make sure you arrive as early as possible especially on weekends if you want to partake in this time-honoured dish offered on a first-come, first-served basis.
Given the freezing wind, light snow, and lack of Fuji-san views I instead opted brief rest stop comprising a sandwich and a protein bar. Less glamorous I know but was keen to get back on the trail. Apart from steep climbs up to Komaru 小丸 and Daimaru 大丸 (1,386 m) the gentle undulating ridgeline connecting Nabewari Sansou and Kinhiyashi 金冷シ delivers some of the best scenery on the hike as it passes through tracks of undisturbed beech forest. If the weather cooperates or you have a burning desire to bag Tounodake 塔ノ岳 (1,491 m) turn left for the 40-minute round trip otherwise veer right to start the long 1,000 metre descent to the Okura Bus Stop.
The Okura Ridge a.k.a. Baka-one is much as I remember from my first overnight hike, I wrote up on this blog 8 years ago – that is interminable and cruelly punishing on the legs. The monotony only punctuated by brief stops at the legion of bleak and timeworn mountain lodges and shutted teahouses that dot the ridgeline. Even the quaint Ookura kougen yama no ie 大倉高原山の家 closed a few years back, taking with it one of the few reliable water sources in the Tanzawa Mountains. Just before reaching the now cordoned off house swing left for the final 30-minute leg back to the bus stop.
Thanks for this write-up of an old stamping ground. I am amazed and delighted that Kusano-san is still serving up his far-famed nabewari udon at the hut – he was talking about retiring years ago. But, as you observe, he is one tough hombre. My, the landscape up there has changed – there never used to be leeches in Tanzawa, except on the appositely named “Leech Mountain”.
As for Hiroshi Ozeki of the bronze statue, the following mini-bio is found on the web. Behind it, one suspects, may lurk some complex history of wartime and subsequent national mountaineering organisations in Japan. Anyway, here goes:
Ozeki Hiroshi – Year of birth: 1896 (Meiji 29)
Date of deathSeptember 9, 1975
Place of birthYosami Village, Hekkai-gun, Aichi Prefecture
Education[year] Graduated from high school and elementary school
CareerAfter working for the Ishikawa-gumi, an import-export shipping company in Yokohama, he joined the Yokohama Alpine Club in 1930 and helped build the Sonbutsu Hut in Tanzawa. In 1935, he joined the Yokohama Alpine Club and was instrumental in the construction of the Sonbutsu Hut in Tanzawa. During the war, he worked to form the Keihin Mountain Organizations Federation and the Alpine Clubs Federation of Japan. He established the All Japan Alpine Association in 1955 and became its vice president. In 1961, he established the Japan Alpine Clubs Association (Zengakuren) and became its vice president.
So his activity seems to have been with the national mountaineering associations (one of which is Zengakuren) rather than with the Japanese Alpine Club (Nihon Sangaku-kai)…
Indeed, the reign of Kusano san is almost the stuff of legends. It’s hard to fathom he’s been at it since 1976. Although nowadays guests are only allowed to stay overnight during New Year’s Eve and even before COVID he was asking customers to eat their Nabewari udon on the benches outside irrespective of the weather. I guess it had all become too much.
Thanks for the particulars regarding Hiroshi Ozeki and for clarifying his involvement with the national mountaineering associations rather than the Japanese Alpine Club.
Hey David, I am planning to go to this hike. I wanna ask regarding busses, do they accept IC cards onboard or I have to pay cash only?
Thanks for the question Chris. IC cards are fine to use.
Not sure where to post. Here’s a recommended one in the Nishi Tanzawa area I did 2 weeks back:
Mt. Azegamaru Waterfalls Loop hike (about 13km, 4 — 4.5 hours). Plenty of water to filter on the hike.
Shin Matsuda Station (Odakyu), then bus (get one about 8.30 am ) in the direction of the Nishi Tanzawa Visitor Centre; takes 1 hour. Get off at Otaki Bashi Bus Stop. Trailhead 20 metres away, up to the left. This is part of the Tokai Shizen Hodo, TSH, so great waymarking, often in English. Hike to Mt. Azegamaru Refuge Hut (toilet but no water here), then summit Azegamaru close by. Continue straight over, and follow the path to Nishi Tanzawa Visitor Centre First afternoon bus back from the Visitor Centre, weekends, is 2.40 pm. There’s a well Camp cafe w/ onsite bakery 1 min. up from the Visitor Centre.
Did this one today (unusually on a weekend – I try and do my hikes on weekdays to avoid the crowds! And, there was quite the crowd, particularly on the way down when hikers coming from Nabewari and Tonodake converged on the same downward trek). Udon still good to go and the same price. Wasn’t going to buy initially, but actually overtook one of the young baito guys heaving a huge load up the mountain on his back and thought I’d support the business!
A few things:
– ground sheet came in handy to lay out on the grass at the top (watch out for the animal droppings!)
– you’re right about the saddle between Nabewari and across to Kinhiyashi. Wow, what a view!)
– you’re also right about that trudge back down. Never ending steps or loose gravel, hell on the knees, so don’t rush it (unlike some of the mountain runner crackpots (see what I did there?) that flew past me as I thought of their knees at age 70…). Poles came in pretty handy. Lot of people came up that way – dunno… think your way up would be much better still.
– Was pretty busy. Get up early for this one if you go on a weekend/holiday. Buses were frequent; two showed up at the same time at Okura (just after I got there on the way back, and I had to make a decision: ice cream, or get on bus to take me to station and then on to onsen at Tsurumaki… my legs chose the latter.)
Cheers as always. GPX worked a treat as usual, too.